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Nairobi, whose name means 'cool water' in Maasai, is a great transport hub, springing into being because it was a convenient place to put a railway terminus during the building of Kenya's famous 'Lunatic Line' in 1899. Since then, it has sprawled upwards and outwards to house a population of nearly three million. Its low-level colonial buildings now jostle equally for space with mirror-fronted skyscrapers, concrete apartment blocks and rickety tin shacks. However, it is also undoubtedly the greatest city in East Africa, a pleasantly laid-back place surrounded by magnificent scenery and a great centre for souvenir shopping.